The additions to the Originals collection from US manufacturer Moscot were one of the surprises of the show. For many years, the company, now part of the Baumvision group and distributed in the UK by Glasseswebb, has forged itself a reputation for on-trend retro frames - many of which have found their way on to the faces of celebrities such as Josh Hartnett and Johnny Depp. Its designs have something of a rare commodity in the world of ophthalmic frames - their own signature style. Shapes and colours are effortlessly retro compared to some manufacturers' offerings that simply seek to trade on the popularity of the trend.
The five metal additions may be something of a departure for the brand in terms of materials, but the styles are unmistakably Moscot - with oversize round profiles and modified panto silhouettes. The Izzy frame features two defined sections - a thin eyewire and a thick brow section with grooved detailing which continues down the temples. This grooved detailing is carried over to the men's Yosi and women's Zelda frames, but the addition of two pieces of acetate on both sides of the frames above the brows give them a completely different look. Two colour schemes are available - gold with mauve acetate and silver with black acetate.
Luxury eyewear designer Barton Perreira is another brand under the Baumvision umbrella. Founded by eyewear designers Bill Barton and Patty Perreira, both formerly of Oliver Peoples, the company has quickly found a place in the hearts of eyewear aficionados and celebrities alike.
Just two of the new models released for this season are the Valerie sunglass and James ophthalmic frame. The women's Valerie sunglass has a late 1960s feel in terms of its lens profile, but enamel edges give it a cat's eye shape. The enamel in the purple version pictured has an almost watercolour painting feel, which adds to the frame's retro appeal. The Havana James ophthalmic frame also has a vintage look, but a matt finish keeps the frame on-trend. Like Moscot, Barton Perreira is distributed in the UK by Glasseswebb.
New territory
Another manufacturer operating outside its traditional remit was Silhouette. The Austrian eyewear producer has earned a reputation for producing some of the highest quality rimless frames available, but at Mido, it was showcasing its new developments in half-rimmed supra ophthalmic frames.
The new frames are not a radical departure from the company's usual designs and traditional Silhouette patients won't be shocked by the new styles. The manufacturer says everything that has made its rimless eyewear such a success over the years has found its way into the new frames. To begin with, three new half-rim styles have been introduced, with full-rim models coming in the summer.
Gotti's two new collections, Retro and Acetate, might not be as easily classifiable as you first imagine. The new Retro collection, comprised of four models, features light and simple titanium styles, but with retro silhouettes. The juxtaposition of modern titanium and older shapes from as far back as the 1950s works well and would suit a patient looking to experiment with retro eyewear but who is concerned that a full-on retro acetate frame could be a bit too much.
The Acetate collection has more of a modern feel and is more in keeping with Gotti's usual design aesthetic. Tapping into the trend for oversized silhouettes, the collection uses subtle colours in highly polished finishes. Those looking for the little details in their eyewear will love the engraved Swiss German sayings on the butt of the temples that talk about how the company was founded.
The manufacturer also released details of its new glazing service, in which its ophthalmic and sunglass frames can be ordered as a fully glazed package. Design developer Thomas Frischknecht says the collaboration has come about as a result of the company having offices in the same building as a high end prescription lab. 'They really know our products inside out, which shows in the quality of the glazing,' he says.
Hinge benefits
Danish manufacturer Lindberg already has one of the widest ranging product catalogues in optics, but this was extended significantly at Mido. An air of secrecy surrounded its newest collection, n.o.w. The 'no wires' range was so closely guarded; Optician wasn't allowed to take pictures of the frames. Expected to be available to practices in time for the summer, the n.o.w collection is made up of polymer based shapes, which despite being something of a departure for the manufacturer in terms of materials, still retain a Lindberg aesthetic. Shapes are less angular than the manufacturer's usual offerings and the range is primarily made up of translucent polymer, with some of the models coming in graduated hues.
More in keeping with Lindberg's design philosophies are the new 9800 Strip series and 8000 series of sunglasses. The men's 8574 and women's 8743 Acetanium sunglass styles are quintessentially Lindberg, with easy to wear styles and colours mixed with high levels of design and craftsmanship. The new Strip collection has an architectural feel, with sheet metal construction and minimalist styling that should appeal to the sort of patients who normally choose Mykita and ic! Berlin frames.
Fellow Dane ProDesign has also released a number of new innovative metal frames, but here the focus is very much on the hinge design. The svelte Axiom collection is inspired by the award-winning Zense collection with rotating hinge. The new Axiom frames feature a tweaked version of said hinge, in which the screws inside it are hidden. For the new 6133 Series, the screw is turned around and made into a feature. The swivel mechanism has a click function which tells the patient when the temple is at full rotation.
The Zense range has also been extended with the additon of a new shape and four new colours. The 7350 frame is slightly deeper than previous models in the range, which the company says is a result of both optical trends and the demand for frames that are suitable for progressive lenses.
Away from the frames and fashion side of the show, a number of new lens technologies were introduced. One of the highlights was Bollé's new B-Thin lens for Rx sports eyewear. B-Thin makes some bold claims: 72 per cent thinner and 45 per cent lighter than traditional Rx sports lenses. However, the adage of 'seeing is believing' is true in this instance and the benefits of the B-Thin lenses are obvious. Available in +6 to -8 powers, the new lens is claimed to cover 99 per cent of the prescription range for wraparound frame styles. While the reduction in thickness is impressive and easily visible, the reduction in weight will appeal to ardent sporting patients. Not only do the new lenses have a lower overall weight, but they allow for frames to have better balance on the patient's face.
With glimpses of an economic recovery and loosening of budget purse strings, it's an optimistic time for the eyewear industry. Buyers will have to wait until Silmo in October to see if the trend for innovation continues, but for now, things are looking up. ?