Something of an Indian summer put Silmo attendees and exhibitors in a buoyant mood for this year’s event. From the outset, optimism was evident among exhibitors and many reported successful sales.
For the first time in several years, the likes of railway engineering works and airline industrial action did not hamper participation, and organiser Comexposium confirmed that attendance had increased by 5 per cent, with total attendance figures of 34,250. However, this figure is still lower than 2013, when more than 35,000 visited the Parc des Expositions venue.
Exhibitor numbers also increased – by 5.3 per cent. There were nearly 900 eyewear, equipment, contact lens and ophthalmic lens exhibitors in 33,300m2 of exhibition space.
The new concept for the event was to make it a flagship store dedicated to eyewear and optics. Pop-up stores were placed around the halls, which featured sections dedicated to luxury eyewear and frame manufacturing.
Organisers paid tribute to the effort made by exhibitors: ‘They demonstrated real creativity, with innovative collections and products in step with today’s marketplace,’ said a spokesperson for Comexposium.
Facial scanning technology at Monoqool and Mykita
For a number of years now, 3D printing or additive manufacturing has very much been on the fringe of mainstream eyewear, but new technology unveiled at Silmo may well be about to change that.
Admired by Optician for a long time thanks to its innovative manufacturing techniques, Danish eyewear brand Monoqool once again showed it is keen to push the envelope with the unveiling of its Customised Eyewear facial scanning system.
A series of cameras takes photos of all angles of the patient’s face which are used to create a 3D drawing of the head and face. This drawing contains a plethora of measurements and anatomical data, including pantoscopic tilt, ear tilt, nose size, base curve and pupil distance. Seeing the drawing for the first time can seem a little strange and the image is how you would imagine yourself in video games such as Grand Theft Auto. Some pre-warning for patients might be needed, but most should be fascinated by what is taking place.
Algorithms in the specially created software suggest a frame style and size from the company’s portfolio, which can then be fine-tuned by an optician. According to Monoqool CEO Allan Petersen, this aspect, and indeed the system itself, empowers the optician and aids them with tools to stand out against multiples and online retailers.
German frame manufacturer Mykita also released a 3D facial scanning at the event. Called My Very Own, the system also uses a collection of special 3D cameras housed within a 360-degree ring which moves up and down around the patient’s head.
Once again, a 3D model of the patient’s face is created and a frame in a tailored size from the My Very Own range is suggested. Using an iPad app, the optician can then fine-tune a range of measurements in stepped increments. In keeping with the brand’s ethos, the process has an air of theatre about, from the Star Trek-style scanning, to the clean cut minimalist aesthetic. Mykita aims to roll out the system in its stores by the middle of next year.
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One of the most interesting aspects of the Monoqool system is how the technology from its technology partner, Sfered, can be utilised in the future. The system is not tied into the Monoqool brand, but can be leveraged by other eyewear partners. Currently, Sfered is working on implementing the technology in the manufacturing of glasses in other materials, including wood and, more interestingly, with acetate in conjunction with 3D milling. An acetate frame that is 3D milled to the exact topography of a patient’s face is an exciting prospect and one which might not be too far away. Although Mykita’s system has, initially, been designed to work with its Mylon brand, it too hopes that the technology will be applied to other materials in the near future, namely its sheet metal frames.
My Silmo: Giovanni Zoppas, CEO, Marcolin
[CaptionComponent="1778"]When I joined the company the decision had already been made to stop exhibiting at Silmo, but in the end I felt the company had to return. We as a company like to build relationships with opticians and our international teams.
We have invested heavily in the booth and reaction to our brands, including the recently added Moncler, has been positive.
We are starting to see some results from the integration with Viva. The brands we have taken on have really complemented our existing portfolio. The number of practices in the UK has increased after the acquisition and we have experienced single-digit growth – which we are very happy with. We are also very happy with the business we are doing with chains in the UK such as Specsavers.
Weird and wonderful: Factory 900, Fakoshima, Retrosuperfuture
Japanese manufacturer Factory 900 always concocts interesting creations. Maybe not practice bread and butter frames, but certainly interesting pieces to place in window fronts to attract the attention of passers-by.
Its FA-087 frame also managed to attract the attention of the Silmo d’Or judging panel, and gained it top honours in the judge’s special prize category. Otherwise known as ‘six eyes’ the frame features two triangularly mounted banks of three lenses – which an exclusive matte gold finish. The company said it has been inspired by thinking about the future and envisaged a world where glasses would feature motorised lenses that could rotate according the needs of the wearer. The craftsmanship on show is stunning, with extra depth coming from milling around each of the eye shapes and smooth bevelling where each lens joins together.
Fakoshima will be a new name to many opticians, mainly because the brand was only established 18 months ago but also because it has initially focused on sunglass production – not run-of-the-mill sunglass production, but avant-garde styles inspired by mystical concepts.
The Cyber Limbo sunglass is inspired the third eye, the mystical and esoteric concept referring to a speculative invisible eye which provides perception beyond regular sight. This third eye is represented by the additional lens above the nose bridge.
It’s hard to predict whether Fakoshima, a project spread between Russia and Moscow, will be a practice staple in the UK any time soon, but next year the company will release its first foray into ophthalmic frames, which if nothing else promises to be interesting.
Retrosuperfuture is an established name in fashion circles and is beginning to filter through into the world of opticians. Probably not with its Tuttolente collection, though. Translated from Italian as ‘all lens,’ frames in the new collection have been constructed entirely from a sheet of Carl Zeiss nylon lens material. Shapes have been selected from the company’s best-selling styles and feature minute metal hinges.
Three's a crowd: 3D additive manufacturing at Tom Stevens and Seiko
Alongside the new breed of bespoke eyewear, 3D additive manufacturing was more popular than ever at the show.
The first thing you notice about Dutch designer Tom Stevens’ frames is just how thin the eye wires and temples are. The capabilities of 3D printing to date have generally meant that there is a minimum thickness which factors in a balance of strength and durability. Stevens has found a way to go beyond these limits and the new collection features what are probably the thinnest 3D printed frames available. Silhouettes range from classic panto shapes to modern interpretations of cat’s eyes. Frames are made entirely in the Netherlands, with only hinge parts and screws being imported from Italy.
You could be forgiven for thinking that the 3D printing movement is a little bit fashion orientated and niche, but that might be about to change with the release of the Xchanger from Seiko. The sports frame has been produced in conjunction with Materialise in the Netherlands. Norbert Meisterburg, Seiko’s European distribution partner manager for frames says Xchanger has been developed to promote Seiko and its innovation capability but it’s also a glimpse of the future. He believes that in 10 years’ time, all opticians will be utilising 3D printers in some way.
Instead of a one-size-fits-all frame, Xchanger offers five different sizes for the main frame and two temple lengths. In addition, the inclination of the main frame can be adapted to the wearer’s face in three different angles – so if a patient knows that the frame is going to be used for cycling, the head-down posture can be accounted for. Colours for each individual part of the frame can also be tailored. The flexibility of 3D printing allows for adventurous yet functional design to be used, demonstrated in the shape of the frame’s venting system – which increases airflow.
Brits Abroad: Kirk & Kirk, William Morris, Dunelm Optical
After the subtle yet glamorous hues of the Vivarium and Solarium frames launched last year, Jason and Karen Kirk have returned with something in keeping with the trends for use of colour – the Kaleidoscope collection. Those who remember the Kirk Originals Beam collection from 2011 will appreciate the 14-strong range across ophthalmic and sunglass categories from the duo’s new brand, Kirk & Kirk. Made once again from lightweight acrylic, silhouettes are bold and feature distinctive bevelling that isn’t obvious at first glance. Turns of the head show off myriad different hues thanks to the polished glass effect.
Silmo is always a key event for William Morris – more so in 2015 thanks to a new distribution agreement in France with Union Jack Eyewear. The new agreement will see the company take on exclusive William Morris sales representatives within France. One of the key releases at the event was the WL9089 women’s ophthalmic frame from the William Morris London collection. Sitting between a butterfly and cat’s eye silhouette, the deep shape of the frame is perfect for older patients looking for an on-trend frame for progressive lenses, but also suitable for younger patients wanting an adventurous shape.
After a few years away from the show, frame supplier and case manufacturer Dunelm Optical returned to Silmo with its range of cost-friendly fashion frames. Alongside its range of licensed brands such as Paul Costelloe and Janet Reger, Dunelm also previewed new models from its in-house Retro collection. The bold-looking Retro 333 frame captured the imagination of many visitors to the stand, says the company, and it’s easy to see why. With its laminated contrasting acetate and wood grain exterior, the frame has a fun aesthetic, doesn’t take itself too seriously and doesn’t try to fully imitate wood.
Hinge benefits: Barton Perreira, Baars Eyewear
Away from Silmo’s trends, colour palettes and scanning technology, Optician found two new innovative hinge designs from two new brands.
New from US eyewear brand Barton Perreira is Allied Metal Works (1). Described by the company as the first ‘technical luxury’ brand, Allied Metal Works has been four years in the making and has brought together a trio of ex-Oliver Peoples president Bill Barton, acclaimed sunglass and accessory designer Patty Perreira and former Reykavik eyes designer and optician Gunnar Gunnarsson.
As the name of the brand alludes to, frames in the collection are constructed from metal – in this instance high-grade stainless steel. The Japanese-made frames feature a hinge designed by technical advisor Gunnarsson, which holds the entire frame together with a stainless steel spring – which can be easily removed with a special tool. The design also means the hinge can be re-tensioned if required.
‘I love the simplicity and ease of Gunnar’s hinge design,’ says designer Patty Perreira. ‘I also believe in the power of timeless fashion and am not a super “techy” person. Don’t get me wrong, I love my gadgets. However, when it comes to eyewear, I find some of the more technical brands to be rather cold. I wear my heart on my sleeve which I think gives my designs more soulfulness. With Allied Metal Works, it was my focus to create frames that were both useful and beautiful. It was important for me not to compromise design for function and vice versa.’
Twenty styles make up the debut collection, which features styles with thinly cut acetate to accentuate the shape of the silhouette.
The use of magnets in spectacles isn’t new, but how new French brand Baars Eyewear has implanted them is completely new. A magnetised inox cube on the end of the temple simply inserts into a recess on the rear of the frame and snaps into place. This might not sound impressive, but the design of the hinge allows the temple to shut and close easily without resistance. It took company owners, designer Guillaume Baars and Paris optician Marc Anthony two years to realise the concept of the hinge. Once you see how it works it’s difficult not to check the smooth action of the temple and to repeatedly remove the temple from the front. Frames are produced in France using Mazzucchelli acetate and silhouettes are inspired by California, which means easy-to-wear shapes with subtle hues.
My Silmo: Gwendoline Radley, dispensing optician
[CaptionComponent="1779"]I love eyewear, in all forms, along with many of my peers. Silmo is the place to immerse ourselves in eyewear and innovation.
After previous visits I helped to adorn the practice I worked in at the time with new and gorgeous collections which were different from the norm, these collections helping to establish the practice as the place for outstanding eyewear locally and a little beyond.
I am now freelance and still love to attend. For me, Silmo is the quintessential showcase to meet old and new eyewear friends, to view and touch new designs and see emerging trends. It is the perfect complement to Paris Fashion Week, also at the end of September.
It’s a bonus to meet the designers of many independent brands. Their passion is contagious and finding out their inspirations give you a fascinating insight. I learn more about them and their designs, which can be applied when promoting their collections. To be able to demonstrate your knowledge of a collection is invaluable, customers like a story behind the brand and the fact you have personally handpicked each piece and spoken to the designers will leave you with a customer who trusts you and your practice for life.