Style for the people

Style should be for everyone, not just the well-heeled. At least, that's the thinking behind the new Oscar+Fitch range of couture spectacles

If you didn't go to Optrafair you can be forgiven for not knowing Oscar+Fitch. It might sound like a US cartoon duo or owners of a chic east coast boutique, but for independent practices and their customers they represent something much more interesting.

Its is the brainchild of Scottish lab owner and designer Drew McDonald.

'Oscar+Fitch are two New York designers who are offended by ugly glasses,' jokes McDonald, with a hint of irony. Speaking in Glasgow's uber-trendy Eye2Eye practice in the city's Hunter Street, the O+F collection on its pink and black display stand certainly looks at home in these art-palace surroundings.

The vibrant new collection of frames echoes the colourful, funky designs to be seen on the European show circuit. But unusually, McDonald doesn't talk about exclusivity, ego and the fashion elite. He talks of low price points, accessibility and repeat purchases.

McDonald's mission is clear - to allow people of any spending power to express themselves through their eyewear.

'Glasses should be fun, but not just fun for wealthy people. Price will always be a trade off, but people do want style and will buy if it is made available at a price they can afford,' he says. 'Prices have been kept purposefully low so people can even think of buying a frame to go with a particular outfit.' A typical price would be 18.95 exclusive of VAT to the optician, with the frame selling to patients at just below 100.

Sensible prices, bold designs
If the prices are sensible, the designs are bold. McDonald has spent three years creating O+F's stunningly eclectic mix of plastic and metal styles spanning a mass of colours and shapes. The collection is an imaginative explosion. But what sets the range even further apart is the very particular attention to detail seen everywhere from cases to graphics, photography, point of sale, and the website. It all comes together to create a distinctive proposition.

There are 53 styles at the moment, ranging from turquoise and red laminated butterfly silhouettes to filigree blacks and zebra print, intricate metal shapes and wide-templed colourful stripes in 360 skews, with some models offered in as many as 10 colours. On first view, the collection comes across as a dolly mixture of plastic colour for the female buyer. Look a little deeper, however, and there are sophisticated metals, chunky masculine models and cosmopolitan laminates as well.

Optics in the blood
McDonald has optics in his blood. His father first became involved as a frame maker and wholesaler in 1964. 'From the age of seven I was aware of this business, around the dinner table and during school holidays at my father's office.

'Sadly, frame manufacture ceased in 1978 as production was drawn to other European countries, principally France and Italy.'

Undeterred, McDonald formed a lens prescription company, Oneoptical, in the early 1980s. This experience was to be the foundation for the Bluesky frame business. 'I realised there was no point trying to emulate the many successful UK frame companies. As with many markets, there is serious over supply. So we seek to differentiate through design and development of unique frame products.' Most notable thus far has been Loops childrens' frames, which are currently supplied to about a quarter of the independent market.

McDonald points out that some of the European couture suppliers can be 'somewhat sniffy' in the way they conduct their business. He has heard of instances where they may require a minimum order of 50 frames, with the customer not permitted even to choose colours. In addition, the practitioner can be required to take a psychometric test in advance of that company 'emptying his pockets'.

McDonald's approach is different. 'In a business sense, I have applied what I know and understand about the commodity lens business to fashionable couture eyewear. To quote the businessman's clich, "Well bought is half sold''. There will be no stringent conditions to stock the range.'

However, McDonald urges practitioners to keep the range affordable and sell the product to the imagination of the customer. 'We are saying to the optician, "Don't be tempted to buy it for 20 and sell it for 230 because that way you are not going to get the repeat business".'

McDonald says his range is an ideal opportunity for independents to offer an individualistic line that will appeal to patients and help the practice to differentiate itself. 'It is all about trying to offer a bit of a solution to the profession. It is good to think a bit more radically, it's about creating excitement to stimulate regular repeat visits to the practice within the two-year test cycle'.

They certainly seem to have created some excitement on a wet Wednesday in Glasgow. Practice owner Sean McCauley is delighted with the initial response. 'In the two and half hours since creating an Oscar+Fitch feature display, we have dispensed five frames.'

Indeed, two more enthusiastic customers pore over the frames on display as we speak. Which is good news for over 100 independent practitioners who have chosen to stock Oscar+Fitch since its launch at Optrafair.

www.oscarandfitch.com