M: Monocle
Monocles (and those that sell them) can probably thank TV show Peaky Blinders for a fashion resurgence in recent years. Those choosing to ape the sartorial style of lead character Tommy Shelby have tended to focus on three-piece tweed suits, newsboy caps and accessories like pocket watches and monocles. But according to the College of Optometrists museum, monocles were actually falling out of favour in the period after World War I, as the optical appliances became associated with tropes of the German High Command.
Monocles date back to the Georgian era of the 1700s and were popular with most classes of people until the early-20th century. Properly cut and measured for its owner, the monocle was designed to be held in-place by the cheekbone and the eye-socket and eyebrow.
The rationale behind the binocular vision correction instrument differs, with some historians believing that the aesthetics of a single plano lens in spectacle frame was unappealing to the wearer, while other accounts say the use of a single lens was generally down to saving money.
N: National Health Service (NHS)
In the years following the ravages of World War II, formation of the NHS helped bring together the country by providing free health for all. As part of the care offered, both children and adults were entitled to free eye examinations and spectacles – which would have cost a significant amount at the time.
When the scheme was launched, there were 33 styles in total, made from nickel, gold-filled and cellulose acetate. The spectacles were designed to be functional, durable and delivered to a budget, so there was little room for fashion or indeed patient satisfaction, with limited size options and colours.
Demand for the spectacles was high, though, far-exceeding the government’s expectations, with the total costs five times the initial estimates. The cost was set to double in the second year and patients were facing 18-month waits for glasses.
This demand gradually waned and ultimately NHS glasses will be remembered by many as a social marker of poverty, although their durability has meant many frames still exist today and find favour with wearers wanting the most genuine of retro eyewear.
O: Oakley
One of the most recognisable names in eyewear actually began by producing motocross parts. In the mid-70s, founder James Jannard produced the Oakley Grip for motorbike handlebars and sold them at events around the country. It was in the early 80s that the company first experimented with optical products, in the form of the O-Frame motocross goggle. With the Oakley logo emblazoned on the strap, the brand soon built up cult appeal in extreme sports circles.
The first sunglass was released in 1984. The Factory Pilot was a performance shield-style frame for cycling and a year later, a more causal style was released – the Wayfarer-inspired Frogskin. Notably, this was manufactured in Japan. Styles from the mid-90s, such as the aptly-named Over the Top, are some of the most iconic pieces of eyewear ever produced.
With business growth came turbulence and in 1996 a pricing dispute with Luxottica meant Oakley products were no longer stocked in retailers like Sunglass Hut. Nearly 10 years year, Luxottica would acquire Oakley in a $2.1bn deal. In doing so, Luxottica also scooped up the Oliver Peoples group, which Oakley had acquired in 2006.
