Features

Aloha spirit of design

Sunglasses
There aren't many eyewear designers with a high profile but Richard Walker is quickly changing that state of affairs. Chris Bennett caught up with him over breakfast in New York

View PDF 

 Get adobe

It's raining hard in New York. It's a fortnight before Christmas and soggy santas stand on the street corners ringing their bells in a vain attempt to create a festive feeling. Richard Walker is sitting at a breakfast bar in the chic surroundings of the cosmopolitan Andaz Hotel on 5th Avenue.

It's a perfect setting for the eyewear designer who has shaped the Maui Jim look for the past three years. New York-based Walker divides his time between Japan, Italy, Hawaii and his home working on new design ideas and creating prototypes for Maui Jim's founder, Walter Hester.

Walker's role is very much at the centre of the whole design and manufacturing process for Maui Jim. He will first discuss ideas with Hester and Jennifer Williams, product development administrator, in broad outline before working on concepts for frame designs. It is at this point the outline for men's, women's sport and material mixes are decided.

'I'll do a lot of drawings here [in New York] and go through them with Walter. He and Jennifer are extremely involved in the development and Walter chooses every piece that goes into production.'

Crafting the prototypes

One of Walker's key roles is building the prototypes which he then presents to Hester and Williams. 'I could talk about designs and shapes with Walter and Jennifer but it would drive them crazy.'

Walker clearly loves the hands-on crafting of the prototypes. He builds these up using a former set around a 6 or 8 base lens, moulds the shape and uses jewellery wax to create the basis for the prototype. He then shapes the wax using tools to create the actual design. 'I enjoy building prototypes,' he says with relish.

And there is no shortage of ideas. 'As a designer I love to overbuild,' he says. The only limit on the collection size is how many pieces it is realistic to retail. This hands-on approach also makes Walker a key link to manufacturing.

As with everything to do with Maui Jim there is a strong emphasis on long-term relationships, trust and partnership. Walker will work with Maui Jim's long-term partners in lens and frame production in Japan and Italy to see the pieces through to production.

'Walter loves pieces that are a bit editorial, that are fashionable,' says Walker, 'even pieces that I think are a bit out there.'

So is that why he lives in New York, to feed off that design vibe? 'Not really,' he says. 'I pull inspiration from eyewear. I have collected frames for years and I have got thousands of pieces.' He says the pieces are all filed in oak in his New York home. Walker's passion for eyewear is tangible as he explains that he collects frames from flea markets, fairs and collectors from around the world. You don't have to be in Hawaii to understand the vibe. 'I really love eyewear design and that's my Aloha spirit,' he says.

Products are also under development for cycling, golf, running and fishing. Many of the ideas come from the things that Hester likes doing, says Walker. Hester has a passion for sports, the sea and diving and has a home by the ocean with longboards ready to go out into the sea. This is a lifestyle also embraced by Walker who says training and adventure sport is a big part of his life.

Hollywood credits

Walker started out as an eyewear designer in Miami using the wax building design system he still employs today. He developed his own 12-piece collection which he took to Expo East in New York and took around to the booths. This led to work in France, then LA Eyeworks and Blinde. While at Blinde in 1998 Walker designed the eyewear for the film The Matrix and went on to do designs for Angelina Jolie as Lara Croft and for the film Charlie's Angels. He eventually designed the eyewear for all three Matrix films.

Next year will see a return to the movies for Walker when Maui Jim product inspired by the film Amazing Spiderman will be released through a partnership with Sunglass Hut. 'I was inspired by the scene in which Peter Parker had to break his glasses to make part of his Spiderman gear. Maui Jim will also be working on a surfing film, the Mavericks, later in the year. ?




Related Articles