Features

Easy on the eyes

Proper eye makeup removal is vital to maintaining eye health. Zoe Wickens reports on why that is and what are the best approaches

An alarming story in Optician recently (News 08.06.18) about a 50-year-old woman from Australia, who neglected to remove her eye makeup over a period of 25 years has served as a timely reminder of the importance of a proper eye makeup removal regime.

Fifty-year-old Theresa Lynch booked a doctor’s appointment, complaining of eye irritation. Her eyelids were lifted during an eventual examination by an ophthalmologist who found dark calcified concretions containing mascara build up. She had inadequately removed her eye makeup for so long it had lodged itself and caused conjunctivitis.

In order for optometrists to be able to correctly advise their patients on the best way to remove eye makeup, Optician spoke to Butterflies Healthcare, which specialises in hypoallergenic cosmetics that can be used by contact lens wearers and those with sensitive eyes.

The company was founded in 2004 by husband and wife James and Michelle Sutton, an optometrist and pharmacist by trade. They started off distributing optical products to wholesaler MidOptic, optician practices, pharmacies and health stores across the UK as well as various online retailers. Soon after, they were approached to sell eye care cosmetics.

Butterflies currently offers eyeliners, eyeshadows, mascaras, makeup removers and moisturisers and says it has received stellar feedback from patients. Reviews say the eye cosmetics are really easy to remove, have no effect on the tear film and do not drag or pull the skin on application. Sutton speaks of a study conducted in 2011 by the manufacturers of Butterflies Eye Care products on females who used the brand’s products between 18 and 30 days and those who did not. The study shows that women who have dry eyes, blepharitis or wear contact lenses find their eyes feel more comfortable using the company’s products.

She says: ‘This is down to a production process that avoids known irritants and ultra-micronises each particle to minimise the effects on the eyes. The pencil eyeliners are rich in beeswax and oils, making them super soft to apply and the two in one express eye makeup remover is extremely effective at gently removing even our felt pen or waterproof eye makeup.’

Sutton explains that the company’s eyeshadows have just been re-formulated with a natural moisturiser called Luffa cylindrica seed oil to absorb excess sebum, which is useful for people with oily eyelids. It stocks five mascaras, with gentle being the mildest formula, as well as high tolerance, long lash, volumising and waterproof mascaras.

Her top tip for adequate and safe eye makeup removal that optometrists can pass on to patients?

‘Usually, closing the eyes and applying a cotton pad soaked with remover in gentle downward strokes is sufficient with a final wipe along the lower lash margin with the eyes open. Contact lens wearers should check their remover is suitable for use with their lenses in.’

Awareness

Cosmetics always print on their packaging a symbol of an open pot, which is known as the period after opening symbol. It shows customers the lifetime of products after the packaging has been opened for the first time by displaying a number of months along with the open pot. For example, companies suggest that a tube of mascara is only used for three months to avoid a build-up of harmful bacteria or catching eye or skin infections.

Sutton emphasises how important it is for patients to take heed of this suggestion due to the fact that bacterial count in an eye makeup product rises the longer it is open.

‘Things that can find their way into or onto an open eye cosmetic include cleanser, toner, moisturiser, eye cream or any other makeup product, which can cause cross contamination with other products. Also found is any sebum or sweat that has formed on the skin throughout the day as well as detritus from the bottom of the makeup bag and daily dirt and pollutants from the outside world.’

There are both short and long-term risks to eye health if eye makeup is not removed correctly, as it is really important for both ocular and facial hygiene.

‘Bacteria loves to feed on the daily oily mess on skin or cosmetics and cause blocked pores, leading to acne, spots or breakouts,’ says Sutton.

‘As a pharmacist, I have seen that eye and skin infections such as conjunctivitis, impetigo and cold sores are extremely contagious and can be easily spread around the face. What struck me was the combination of tacky or oily things along with various solid particles that would stick together and build up, day after day over time. I am sure that under a microscope this would look horrendous.’

All of the Butterflies Healthcare products are designed to be free from as many chemical or irritating ingredients as possible, including sodium laureth sulphate, parabens and gluten. This is with the intention that the products are suitable for people with sensitive eyes and allergies, as well as for contact lens wearers.

The company continues to build up a solid reputation for offering hypoallergenic cosmetics, and has won a variety of awards for its products, such as best product at the Beauty Awards in 2015 and 2017, and best mascara at the Natural Health Beauty Awards in 2017.

Tried & tested

Optician’s in-house cosmetics blogger Zoe Wickens tried some of Butterflies Healthcare’s products

Eye Care Volumising Mascara

This hypoallergenic volumising mascara has been designed to give volume to your lashes while still being gentle and suitable for those with sensitive eyes or contact lens wearers. Fragrance and paraben free, the formula has been made with nylon fibres, mineral microspheres and silicon to strengthen the eyelash and to avoid clumps. Optician found that eyes did not feel irritated at all.

Eye Care Eye Makeup Remover 2-in-1 Express

A biphasic (two-stage) cleansing solution is gentle in removing all traces of waterproof makeup from the face. It is made up of an oily phase, which dissolves even waterproof makeup and an aqueous phase, which gets rid of impurities and refreshes tired eyes using cornflower water extract. The liquid has been adapted to be isotonic and is the same pH as tears, so the eyes will not sting or feel irritated. It is also free from sodium laurel sulphate, which many find irritating on the skin. It removed all eyeshadow, liner and mascara with ease, Optician noted. Eyes were left clean and irritant free.

Eye Care Eye Makeup Remover Emulsion (Milk Base – white)

This emulsion has been created with non-ionic tension-active ingredients, which help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and cleanse the eyes when used daily. It can even be used while still wearing contact lenses, so users are able to see if they have removed all traces of makeup. It is suggested that the emulsion should be applied to a cotton pad and placed gently over closed eyes. Wait several seconds for the makeup to dissolve, then slide the pad gently downwards. The company recommends using a different cotton pad for each eye, which Optician agrees with. The creamy liquid removed eye makeup completely and did not make eyes feel itchy.

Eye makeup removal: dos and don’ts from Michelle Sutton

Do use really good quality cotton pads to avoid fibres getting into your eyes.

  • Do use a fresh side of a cotton pad until it wipes clean and always use separate pads for each eye.
  • Do use the right cleanser for your eyes and face, don’t be tempted to use a face cleanser around the eyes.
  • Don’t be too rough, just use a gentle wiping action.
  • Don’t forget to clean your eyebrows if you have pencilled them in or used a brow mascara.
  • Don’t skimp on makeup remover as some eye cosmetics are oil-based, meaning that using plenty of remover means less wiping.