Ford splash

Marcolin managing director Maurizio Marcolin described the forfeiture of Dolce&Gabbana as a 'big loss of a big brand, which we worked hard to build for 10 years'.

'We had to overcome something that was not a Marcolin decision, but immediately the company made incredible changes and sought new partnerships,' he said.

Mr Marcolin credits shareholders Diego and Andrea Del Valle for contributing great ideas and connections, including Tom Ford.

'They have great marketing techniques, they know how to position brands and how to attract quality brands to us.

'We have agreed the new Roberto Cavalli line; I personally signed the Kenneth Cole agreement in America and we closed the agreement with Ferrari due to launch in the Spring.'

But the Tom Ford sunglass line was the focus for Silmo, comprising 20 models equally divided for men and women that are strong yet architecturally simple in design. Inspired by aviator sunglasses, sports glasses and film-star shapes, Ford's fluid designs mix luxurious materials with dramatic style.

Due for release in January is a TV ad campaign for the collection which promises to stir up some controversy.

In an interview with the Telegraph magazine (October 29) Ford said: 'We shot it with porn stars. Two men and two women. And we paid them to have sex on set. You don't see it in the shot, but you feel it. You wait.'

Mr Marcolin said the exclusivity of the Tom Ford range means it will not be widely available. 'It's a luxury product that will have a luxury distribution.'

While he does not think the days of the designer name are limited, Mr Marcolin believes there is definitely a market for the smaller exclusive product. 'We want to represent both,' he said.

We have the big brand notoriety, but also and especially with Tom Ford we have a luxury product that will never be available en masse. And the range is discreet. Consumers don't always want to be a brand sign walking around.'

For now, Mr Marcolin says the company is keen to consolidate its existing brands and he shrugs off the prospect of other major companies merging. 'So many companies are being absorbed that I don't think there are many left to consolidate. The mission of Marcolin is not to be the biggest but the best.'