The production of eyewear using 3D printing has been gathering momentum in the eyewear industry for a number of years now, but at Silmo the use of the technology became even more apparent. Mykita, Monoqool and Ron Arad’s PQ Eyewear project were just three of the brands using the technology, each in different ways and in different styles.
In some quarters, 3D printing has been touted as the future of eyewear, but how are designers using the technology at present?
Danish manufacturer Monoqool unveiled its first 3D selective laser sintering project at the event, the IQ Series.
The manufacturer has a reputation for innovation, with its corkscrew hinges and NXT frames, so the addition of 3D printed frames made perfect sense says CEO Allan Peterson: ‘We decided to give it a try because it allows greater flexibility from a technology perspective. It’s also great because it allows us to keep production in Denmark instead of Japan – which itself is an achievement as most eyewear today is coming cheaply out of Asia. We also have greater control over the quality and can drastically reduce lead times.’ Peterson believes that when the collection is production ready towards the end of the year, lead time could be as low as two weeks from order to delivery. Impressive considering the additional manufacturing steps that Monoqool deploys.
When you first pick up an IQ Series frame, the fact that it has been 3D printed isn’t immediately obvious. Some 3D printed frames suffer from rough textures and edges, but the IQ series is smooth and the edges of the frame have been tumbled perfectly. The colouring and finishing are also a step up from traditional 3D printed designs and Peterson says colour pigment has a depth of 1mm – so scratches won’t show the original colour of the material.
The greater scope for innovation that 3D printing offers is evident in the hinge design, which Peterson says wouldn’t be possible with regular material. A thin curved piece of stainless steel inserts into the lug at right angles and clips into place without screws.
Eye shapes in the collection range from large sports-inspired styles to retro silhouettes and the initial colour palette is subtle. Monoqool has enlisted Charles Zooens, former Minima designer, to create the collection’s silhouettes and Optician asked Peterson if he was worried about consumers making their own frames on 3D printers. ‘Not really no, we’re a long way off that. Even small 3D printing businesses don’t have the optical experience of tumbling and colouring. We had to search long and hard for a producer here in Denmark.’
PQ Eyewear’s first foray into 3D printed eyewear came at Mido in 2012 with its Angel sunglass. Now its Springs range of ophthalmic frames and sunglasses has pushed things forward. Optician has featured PQ and Arad’s slightly left field A-Frame line in the past, but the new Springs range plays it slightly safer and offers a slightly more optician-friendly product. Eye shapes are classical and easy to wear, but the innovation synonymous with Ron Arad designs is still present. The one-piece frames feature a hinge design based on an exoskeleton and bend to close. The design is ingenious, but one that needs an expert manufacturer. Luckily PQ has utilised the services of a Surrey-based company that produces parts for the medical industry and the McLaren Formula 1 team.
Out of all those showing 3D printed frames, Mykita probably has the most experience of working with 3D printing in a consumer-ready form. Its patented Mylon material has evolved considerably over the past three years – in terms of its feel, colouring and the range of shapes available.
The mountaineering inspired Anselme and Sylvain sunglasses show of the flexibility of the material. What once would have been leather side shields are now clip on nylon parts that slide over the temples when shut. It also shows the manufacturer’s confidence in the material, as plastic sliding over plastic is going to wear at a faster rate. In addition, the temples have been designed with extra flexibility for use with a helmet. For the two new models, the manufacturer has specified mineral glass lenses, which reveal the Mykita logo when breathed on.
The flexibility of 3D printing is demonstrated by the range of materials that can be used when producing items. Belgian designer Hoet has pushed the 3D printing envelope with the release of the Hoet Couture project, which has seen the designer produce frames printed from titanium – a process which uses titanium powder sintered by laser.
The brand has a reputation for modern designs and the two initial styles (Homme and Femme) are no different. Both share basic rectangular silhouettes, with the women’s model sporting subtle upswept brows, but the level of detailing on display is one rarely seen and shows off the potential of the production method. The fronts feature a hollow honeycomb structure seamlessly mated to thin outer edges. The hinge design closes like a finger but takes on a robot-like appearance. Hinges are damped with an alloy plate within the titanium.
As well as some of the production benefits of 3D printing, Hoet also believes that there are a number of environmental benefits too. ‘This technology produces eyeglasses without creating any waste, while using a very low amount of energy. In addition, there is no need for the production of stock. Apart from the show models, the only frames produced are the ones actually sold – no unsold stock. A win-win situation for us and opticians,’ says a spokesperson for Hoet.