The fine line

The William Morris Eyewear collection is undergoing a transformation, one which its founder Robert William Morris has instigated for two reasons. First, he believes that eyewear tastes in Britain are increasingly emulating the more adventurous flavours found on the continent. Second, it is the continent where he is now planning to take his collection by developing an export side to the business.
'There's a great fondness for British brands at the moment in Europe, which is encouraging for people like me,' explains Morris. 'An element of the new range will become less marketable in the UK but more marketable abroad, so it's almost like two collections in one. But then the UK is catching up so fast with Europe that I'm sure the new models will do just as well here.'
After seeing me, Morris is meeting a marketing consultant to discuss the brand's identity abroad - one that is quintessentially British, but without being 'naff'.
'We chose the name because it's my family name,' he says. It has nothing to do with pre-Raphaelite artist, poet and social reformer and Morris says he is keen to make sure that any misconception is corrected. 'We would never want to or try to pretend it has anything to do with that William Morris. So we've never marketed the brand with nice tapestry,' he jokes.
'I think William Morris is a good name, it sounds English. I didn't want to make up a name that meant nothing.' He believes it is right that a collection is named after the person behind that collection, not hiding behind a designer label or - he frowns at the mention of them - non-designer names. Morris has a problem with the growing trend for brands which have nothing to do with fashion eyewear. 'I think it's ridiculous now, this linking of brands with eyewear. Hallmark for example, it's shocking! What have greeting cards got to do with a pair of frames?'

BIG DESIGN OR BIG NAME?
One only has to look at the oversized sunglasses we've grown used to to realise that minimalism is relinquishing its grip on fashion eyewear. Frame styles now incorporate chunky temples and distinct eye shapes, broadening the scope for designers to add pizzazz to their handiwork. 'I think design is selling now, not names,' says Morris. 'There's actually a bit of snob value to discovering a brand that's not known. You're not being labelled, you're an individual. You've bought that because you like it.'
Morris concedes that customers still have to like the design of the Gucci or Chanel they're forking out 200 for, but points out that you will now find patients who will actually decide against buying a label because of the amount of branding on display or because of association that a brand has developed over time. 'That's where the market is changing, massively,' he says, adding that perhaps the most obvious example of this is Burberry. 'I don't want to be associated with the typical person wearing Burberry - it's a turn off.'
He says practitioners are looking for something different, something well designed and something the multiples haven't got. The problem is it's easy to choose something too distinctive.
'Outside London, there are few designer opticians that can sell the really high end frames. The problem is that "different" brands can be too exteme. They've got to be conservatively different. They're unique but they're wearable and that's what I believe we achieve with William Morris.'
This is the fine line he is treading with some of the new models. 'The styles are much riskier and more niche, but I think the UK market is ready for it and I think definitely the European market is ready. Some of them are more expensive because of the shift up in the design and quality.'
Morris says practitioners are now much better at understanding what patients want but he still believes many don't take buying seriously enough. 'Each practice should have a buying strategy for each market segment, and this strategy should be reviewed every year - you can't stand still.
'Similarly, I think the danger for William Morris would be to carry on as it is, which is relatively safe. If we just stay in that market, we will be trading on our good reputation with opticians. Instead, we need to be constantly pushing the boundaries.'
Without boundary pushing, Morris warns practitioners that their patients will go elsewhere. 'The new generation of patients don't feel embarrassed to leave your practice, they don't feel obliged to buy specs from you just because you've tested their eyes.'