Emma White braves the cold in Munich to discover that the show isn't solely about eyewear, with developments in lens technology continuing apace
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Opti Munich offers a welcoming alternative to the hustle and bustle of Silmo in Paris and Mido in Milan. The well-organised show offers high quality exhibitors and the time and space to build contacts. Over 600 exhibitors from 48 countries showcased their products and services at the New Munich Trade Centre from January 26-28 this year over a floor space of 45,000 square metres. And a record 35,000 visitors from 70 countries came to preview the latest fashion trends and technical developments in frames, sunglasses, contact lenses, instruments and services. Last year's show attracted 34,000 visitors from 69 countries.
As the first major eyewear exhibition on the optical calendar, Opti Munich is the ideal event to gain an insight into trends for the coming year. Without a doubt sunglasses appear to be getting smaller and more modern in appearance, while some prescription styles are more daring. This is clearly a generalisation and a stop off at the Robert La Roche stand confirmed that some companies believe bigger sunglasses are better. However, compared to Paris and Milan where oversized 1970s eye masks were everywhere, Munich showed more refinement and added details. Many companies experimented with materials from alligator skin and buffalo horn sides to 'wooden effect' brushed acetate fronts. Others adorned minimalist and rimless styles with jewels and logos. And sports lenses were a dominating focus for the major lens manufacturers.
High fashion
High-end company Tag Heuer introduced the L Type range featuring alligator and python skin sides. The limited edition sunglass comprises 200 pieces, including 10 for the UK. Designed to match the quality seen in Tag Heuer watches, the glamorous collection is finished in platinum. The classical optical line also features leather and alligator sides, with a ceramic finishing and colours include black, brown, white and red. Launched at Silmo, the Panorama range now incorporates a hinge so that sides can conveniently be opened and closed. Lightweight and durable, these titanium frames have been coated in the same polymer used on Formula 1 tyres.
Also new was the Fred sunglass model which featured tiny metal pearls at the temple and sides. It is available in six different eye shapes and colours.
Swiss company Gotti's collection oozes craftsmanship and style. Black fronted supra Frisco has contrasting orange sides while acetate sunglass mask Sook is softly curved and has a polished wood appearance. Meanwhile, rich and modern acetate optical model Cherry is moderate in size, very flattering and stylish.
German company Mykita introduced the follow-up to its award-winning Collection No 1 with the launch of Collection No 2. After 10 years using sheet-metal the designers have moved to cellulose acetate designs which feature a snap hinge made from 0.8mm flat sheet metal. The six prescription styles and six sunglasses are available in a range of opaque colours with no lamination including black, brown, olive and red. The square acetate designs are solid but simple.
ic! berlin showed off its first plastic sunglass collection. The strong bold designs created by Bernhard Schwarzbauer were inspired by iconographic images of Hollywood divas. Classic pane forms and traditional celluloid acetate form the basis of this line. The frames have been crafted to create a three-dimensional and contemporary appearance. The collection comprises six models - two for women, two unisex and two for men - and comes in muted dark colours. The quirky names given to the models - such as Humphrey and Sophia - add character to the collection.
Porsche Design's 'strikingly masculine and classically sporty' range includes 12 new models. P'8120 correction frames and the P'8445 sunglasses feature 'modern technology, perfect workmanship, and an extraordinary design'. Reading Tool P'8801 is available in 1,000 limited colour editions. The stainless steel front dominates the frames in classical black with red plastic sides and comes in a small compact case.
Those keen to make an eyewear statement, should look no further than the Robert La Roche Diamond collection. Comprising 10 optical and four sunglass styles, the handmade acetate range comes in bold black to set off the diamond detailing. These huge styles feature the 'rlr' logo. The Gothic range also comprises 10 sun and four optical styles. Already popular and established in Germany and Italy, this company is looking to make its mark in the UK.
Italian company Cult (I see I am) - the producer of Alek Paul and Creativi attivi brand which launched a year ago in the UK - has introduced a new range by the name of Thakoon. The sunglass collection by Alek Paul and created by New York-based designer Thakoon Panichgul, is described as 'medium to high level and comparable to Marc Jacobs'. Muted colours range from tortoise to champagne with some touches of black and Bordeaux. Model TK502 demonstrates the emphasis on cleanliness and refinement. Aluminium is also combined with acetate as seen in TK101. 'We've had a great response to the collections,' says Cult founder and designer Alessandro Martire.
Celebrity-friendly Oliver Peoples highlighted its optical frames, including the upswept cat's eye styles Dexi and Portia, which, according to the company, is something of a 'sexy librarian look'. For men, the Clarke and Prescott offer clean lines 'fusing sophistication and style'. This season's sunglasses are smaller and more modern as seen in the Barlow and Moffitt. The unisex bevelled plastic Prentice sunglass features retro pin detailing while the Arabelle, Jezebelle, Leyla and Vilette encompass gold metal detailing. Colours throughout the collection are muted black, dark mahogany and olive tortoise.
'Classic with a twist' are the words Paul Smith uses to describe his Spring/Summer 2007 range. In the optical collection, the PS-1007 merges bi-coloured metals to the titanium, semi-rimless shape a fresh look while the PS-508 men's 50's inspired style couples a plastic brow bar with a metal bridge and bottom eye wire. Meanwhile PS-405 for ladies features cut-away plastic exposing bright back laminate colour (pink, aqua, lavender) to peek around traditional tortoise on the frame front. Asymmetrical metal detailing characterises sunglass PS-375 while plastic sunglasses PS-378 and PS-379 are inspired by late 1970s and early 1980s.
Colour, decoration and lightness
Colour is the first word to spring to mind on visiting the Allison stand with its Try Change range. This range was launched between Mido and Silmo last year and now includes 40 colour options. These frames feature interchangeable sides to enable the customer to match frames with an outfit. Allison also previewed United Colours of Benetton eyewear, which will be officially launched in March. Displayed with the tagline 'Dress your face', this ophthalmic collection includes six shapes, each with three different covers to clip on the rims and up to five colour options.
Also increasingly colourful and patterned, French company Lafont presented a wide range of experimental designs. Star features an acetate front with soft round eyes and the trademark stainless steel lace design at the temples. The lace design along with new 'forest' and 'bamboo' patterns are also painted across the brows of stainless steel frames. On other designs the acetate fronts are combined with fine leather wrapped sides neatly sealed at the tops. A wooden effect has been created by brushing the acetate on some frames, while deeper eye shapes are included to fit progressive lenses.
Cazal displayed its eyewear on open displays outside the stand and highlighted three designs: Dada 193, Dimitri 714 and Alex 971. Dada is a delicate titanium gold optical frame with small diamond inserts and available in blue-silver, Bordeaux, bronze-rose and lilac. Dimitri for men is a lightweight titanium style combined with acetate, creating a 'classy striking appearance'. While monel goldplated sunglass Alex is a large cheerful frame with 'florally toned cheek area and elegant colourful inserts'.
Appealing to the 'classical but modern and youthful woman' is the Metropolitan stainless steel line from OWP, distributed by William Morris Eyewear in the UK. The company highlighted model 1660 - a cool stainless steel frame with opening on the temples which creates lightness, without losing shape. Outer contours in matt/shiny effects and tone in tone combinations make the frame sparkle. Other models combine stainless steel fronts with colourful stripey acetate sides. All models can be fitted with progressive lenses. Mexx introduced six new sunglasses and 11 prescription frames. Red dot award winner 5332 has been developed and refined into model 5346, combining aluminium temples and an acetate front and comfortable rubber ear supports. Lightweight and understated models 5462 and 5463 combine aluminium temples with a titanium front for 'urban trendsetters' and come in four colour concepts. By contrast, glossy and glamorous Mexx sunglasses offer trendy gradient lenses in multi-layered acetate material.
Titanium and rimless specialists Lindberg highlighted the new Acetanium range, which as the names suggests, combines acetate at the fronts with titanium sides. The light Spirit range features acetate sides which are reinforced with titanium, and these come in three stripey colours - green, Havana and red.
Austrian company Silhouette previewed the SPX Motion collection ahead of its April launch. SPX 'the world's lightest synthetic eyewear material' has been transformed into eight new rimless models, which are available in eight lens shapes. Supple and dimensionally stable, the frames for men and women feature the trademark 'screwless hinge' and are hypoallergenic, with full colour and transparency.
Rimless company Flair presented Flair Couture and Pure. Combining minimalist styling with maximum comfort, Pure is made with high-tech biosteel without screws and soldering joints. Lenses are connected to the sides via a knotted nylon thread providing a 'lightness and elasticity'. By contrast, Flair Couture features sparkling Swarovski Signity stones within precious metals to match jewellery in the collection. Flair 129 is a titanium frame with discreet jewellery and soft feminine lines.
British brands
Continental Eyewear sales and marketing director Neal Grimason says he has noticed trends towards bold design and ever brighter colours. On show was the rapidly expanding X-Eyes range with 12 new designs bringing the total to over 90. Launched three years ago, the collection appeals to all age groups and as Grimason says, is a reflection of how British tastes are changing. The range includes acetates, metals and combinations of both and the colourful frames with intricate sides and temples mean there are styles to suit all tastes.
Booth & Bruce presented seven exciting new styles which combined stainless steel with acetate. Colours are well considered with side shades complementing the fronts. Peter Booth explained that the duo's retail background puts them in a strong position to create wearable designs. 'We experiment with shiny and matt materials but avoid decoration,' he says.
Brulimar sales director Alexander Harris represented the Playboy brand for its German launch. 'We're getting a lot of interest,' he says. The collection features distinctive branding and bold designs. '65 per cent of Playboy customers are ladies aged over 40', says Harris. 'They'll opt for a bigger and deeper more subtle frame in the collection.'
Oscar & Fitch CEO Drew McDonald was keen to stress that eyewear can be affordable, and made the point by displaying a €30 sign at his stand. 'The market has accepted our collections beautifully. Frames must be at a price people are happy to pay,' he says. A huge variety of experimental styles were presented from colourful chunky acetates to angular interesting metals.
Lens innovations
A big feature on the Rodenstock stand was a technology project still in development with British innovation company Cambridge Consultants which combines electronics with optics. Informance lenses project data, such as heart rate, into the wearer's field of vision. A prototype model demonstrated how the electronics are integrated invisibly into the frame.
Also presented was Impression FreeSign - the first individual progressive lens with a variable design. Easy-to-use interactive consulting software enables the practitioner to establish an individual vision profile. Reference points can be easily positioned, close range selected freely and maximum visual zones ensured.
Rodenstock's ColorMatic photochromic 1.6 index lenses are suitable for all types of frames, provide UV protection up to 400nm and come in warm colours of brown, grey and green.
New rimless models for a 'young urban look' featured three modern lens shapes, modern metallic colours and side end covers to match the colour of the polyamide hinge. Also showcased were the ultra-light beta titanium Ti-Lite models with two new ladies' designs in three bright metallic colours.
Hoya's latest progressive lens Hoyalux iD Lifestyle was on show, although not yet available in the UK. This free-form back-surface design, supported by iD Freeform Design Technology, offers minimum distortion and the widest possible intermediate segment for natural interaction. A uniform vertical addition power is placed on the front surface away from the eye to provide a consistent visual performance.
Rupp + Hubrach showcased a new personalised single-vision Ysis lens in 1.6 index and a progressive lens family for Anateo available in indexes: 1.5, 1.6, 1.67. The Ysis lens takes into account thousands of points to create a uniform personally optimised lens. The Anateo lens is described by R+H as the first anatomically aware option designed to enable a frame to perfectly fit the face.
Carl Zeiss Vision presented a totally new method of optical computation for eyeglass lenses by the name i-Scription. The basis of the computation of i-Scription lenses is an innovative measuring system called 'i-Profiler'. It analyses the human eye with a high degree of precision and provides detailed information on the imaging properties of the human eye, in particular higher-order aberrations. Zeiss has also introduced three further versions of its individual progressive lens, Gradal Individual FrameFit: Index 1.5 in Transitions Brown and Grey which speeds up the brightening process, says the company.
? Opti Munich 2008 will take place from January 11-14 under the new management of Franz Reisberg, CEO of GHM.