This article is best viewed in a PDF Format.
|
|
Industrial titanium visors lined up next to pearl-studded sunglasses, chemical-cut filigree frames and metallic supras with acid-green rubber inlays. And the variety of patterns was endless - from Beausoleil's 'fishnet stocking' pattern, to Moods of Norway's quirky paisleys, to Face à Face's candy-coloured stripes.
'The days of black, brown and grey only are over,' declared Federation of Manufacturing Opticians' chairman Andrew Actman early on in the show. A short walk around the NEC proved he was not wrong.
Scandinavian invasion
Scandinavian companies once again proved exactly why they are famous for their design abilities. Scandinavian Eyewear had a brilliant year at Optrafair, receiving three awards in the FMO's Frame Awards, which were announced at the show opening. Hollywood won first place in the sunglass category and it was easy to see why. The elegant large-eye women's model by designer Efva Attling in pearlescent acetate had a light glitter finish and featured Attling's swirly signature down the thick sides. The company also took first place for fun children's model Cirkus 5101 and the runner-up award for men's model 8608.
Vice-president Sonnie Byrling was at the stand showing the various collections from Artic, which is 'typically Scandinavian in design', to Birka - 'inspired by the Scandinavian autumnal landscape' - to Skaga.
The company had enjoyed much success in the UK to date, Byrling said, and expected it to continue. 'This is definitely a growing phase for us.'
Ego Eyewear was showcasing its five main lines, with Face Stockholm in particular generating much attention. Face Stockholm, explained Ego Eyewear national sales director Phil McKeegan, was originally a make-up brand and as such the range is deliberately colourful and feminine.
One particular frame making an impression at the show was the Elegance model. The metallic fronts curve around slightly, but leave a space between the edge of the lens and the sides. In this space sits a motif crafted from metal and resin which sweeps from the edge of the lens and to the sides. 'It is a very different look, a very different detail,' McKeegan said.
Ego Eyewear was also introducing the new brand Moods of Norway. 'It is fun, quirky and totally off-the-wall,' McKeegan said. 'They put all kinds of graphics and patterns into their designs. For example, Lunde has a paisley print on the acetate sides, and Hjelle has outlines of trees and tractors down the sides. Fosnes actually has a line from a poem written on the insides of the frame.'
The quirkiness runs right through the brand - even the frame cases featured poetry on the insides, and their cleaning cloths have a recipe for 'Grandma's waffle mix' printed on them.
And though a long way from Scandinavia, but still under the Ego Eyewear umbrella, was the new eyewear collection from Scottish golfing brand Lyle & Scott. The brand - previously a favourite of conservative older men - has recently been adopted by a younger generation of golf lovers, and it was this interest that prompted the brand to develop an eyewear collection. The pastel colours - light blues, plums and silvers - and the diamond check patterns are reminiscent of traditional golfing attire said McKeegan. The model names - Belle Isle, Ladybank, Kilmarnock and St Andrew's - are those of famous golf clubs.
Sceye exhibited at Optrafair for the first time, and took the idea of design to a whole new level with its new Designer Vision range. '[With this range] each year we seek out people who are involved in design in different ways,' explained Martin Klaar, Sceye managing director. 'This year we have been working with Karim Rashid, a well known industrial designer who has been involved in everything from fashion to music to hotel design.'
The result is a collection of uber-modern ophthalmic and sunglass frames unlike anything else on show. Visors dominate the range, and in the Kys model, the lens material wraps around to form the temples and sides as well.
Klaar was also promoting the company's custom-made services. 'We have classic frames which can be made into bespoke creations, as customers can choose all kinds of shapes, patterns and colours. We even have different side widths they can choose from,' he said. 'Such choice allows opticians to help the customers create their own frames and this fosters a good relationship between the customer and the optician.'
Danish company Pilgrim - renowned for its jewellery designs - launched its third eyewear collection at Optrafair. The femininity which is a hallmark of the jewellery range is evident in the eyewear, particularly in the 712-500 sunglass model, which has a floral pattern worked into the silver temples, and the 709-100 sunglass model, which has tiny Swarovski crystals scattered along the lenses and sides. The 2007 signature sunglass model 701-100, is elegantly simple, with oversized rounded acetate fronts and open silver sides.
British design
Also collecting accolades at Optrafair was British fashion frame company Inspecs, which had recently been presented with the Queen's Award for Enterprise, International Trade 2007 and as the show opened was also awarded with the FMO Frame Awards runner-up prize for sunglasses for Biba England S0005. It later won Product of the Year at Optician's own awards night for the Terence Conran collection. Marketing manager Sam Craig was keen to show off the Vision by Conran 'Book box' which can be slotted on to a shelf. Along with the frame, the book contains a lens cleaner, high end cloth, bespoke aluminium case with cedar wood ends and the prescription - all designed by Terence Conran. The collection, Craig said, was targeting the 30-plus design-focused customer. Acetates in autumnal colours, horn, greens and browns featured heavily.
'The frames have an internal hinge which provides a lot of movement while keeping with the Conran ethos - simple, useful and plain,' said Craig. Frames also feature a discreet inlaid Terence Conran signature along the top sides. Commenting on the show, Craig said that Optrafair was 'looking better than previous years' and was a good opportunity for British companies to show their designs. However, he suggested that it might be better to group companies with the same 'ethos' together. 'With other shows supporting the bigger companies it prompts the question whether you might wait for two weeks to visit Mido instead,' he said.
Inspecs was also promoting the Manish Arora range. Arora was the first Indian designer to have his designs appear on a Parisian catwalk, and he has since been lauded as the 'Jean Paul Gaultier of India'. Four styles were featured at London Fashion Week and the full collection will launch at this year's Silmo.
Austin Reed eyewear has been revamped with a contemporary new logo and is fronted by former international rugby player Jeremy Guscott. Richer colours, smaller eyeshapes and improved frame materials meant the new-look collection was very well received.
If there was an award for most creative stand, Scottish company Bluesky should have won it for its eye-catching Oscar & Fitch stand.
Director Drew McDonald was leading tours around the huge New York-themed stand, the centrepiece of which was a row of pink barbecues filled with the latest frames from the diverse collection.
'We want people to relax,' explained McDonald. 'Opticians are finally realising that they're in the fashion business and we're keen to reflect that. It's a fantastic opportunity and I like to apply what I've learned in the manufacturing industry to fashion.'
Spectacle wearers, he said, were naturally drawn to what they knew, so it was important for practitioners to take the time, every two years or so, to suggest different ideas. And at the Oscar & Fitch stand every taste was catered for, from traditional and understated styles to the most wacky colourful designs. McDonald was keen to point out a set of bold sunglasses in black and white with check side patterns. 'Personally I don't like the logo,' he said. 'I prefer for the style, colour and form to speak for itself.' He added that he'd prefer Optrafair to be located in London, as it would be more pleasurable and memorable.
FMO chairman Andrew Actman was also keen to share his views on Optrafair, the market and his collections. 'Optrafair is a great place. We do big business with the multiples and this is the only place people can come together to share ideas. My only suggestion is that the Boulevard should be sectioned off more clearly,' he said.
Heaping praise on partner Janice Mico, designer for Actman & Mico, he said: 'The frame front must be wearable, while excitement can be created in detailed laser-etched sides to give a nice twist.' Some companies, he noted, were beginning to experiment with 'panto' round frames, however he remains unconvinced that this look will catch on, as he believes it is a difficult style to wear.
Speaking from the large Brulimar stand on day one, sales director Alexander Harris said Optrafair was a quieter show with high quality visitors. Many delegates, he noted, were on a 'mission' to earn CET points. Brulimar was selling starter packs to stand visitors for its popular ranges including Playboy, Bench, Pepsi Max and the newly launched Hooch. 'We also offer free POS materials including mirrors, showcards and a free watch which is purely a show offer,' he said.
Managing director Howard Librae said that the Hooch launch for 16 to 25-year-old women showed that 'pretty is back'. 'These styles are gentle enough to wear on your face without being "in your face" and they aren't over domineering,' he said. Hooch 05, a style with open temples featuring a metal flower, and Hooch 18, with diamanté detailing, illustrated this perfectly. A regular at Optrafair, Librae said that the show provided the opportunity to showcase all that Brulimar does. 'Our stand size and portfolio is an opportunity to show that we are a serious player with brands that sell through.'
Continental Eyewear had a spacious and easily accessible stand at the show complemented by a small additional stand in the Boulevard area dedicated to best-selling brand X-eyes.
Sales and marketing director Neal Grimason was in good spirits after learning that X-eyes model 053 had won the FMO Frame Awards men's category. The show was going well for Continental, he said. 'Sometimes it's been quiet, sometimes bustling, but the quality of visitors is high. I've spoken to people from South Africa, Australia, Belgium and Namibia today. And of course it is always superb to see existing customers,' he said.
Twelve new X-eyes models were launched, bringing the total number of frames in the collection to 105. Grimason particularly highlighted X-eyes 100 - 'a bright style for young faces'.
The finer details
Once again, designers demonstrated a flair for creating new and intricate frame details. At International Eyewear, the new Episode range of ophthalmic frames was generating a great deal of attention. Classic, wearable shapes have been dressed up with interesting patterns and laser-cut graphics. New this year are the Episode models 89 to 91. Geometric shapes have been cut out of the acetate sides of these models, and then small coloured metal shapes inserted into these spaces. Also attracting attention was one of the 2007 'flagship' models, Episode 80. This is a tri-laminated acetate frame, and then 'surf-inspired patterns' have been etched down the sides - revealing the under layers. The frame is finished off with crystal studs.
'We have released quite a few products in the Episode collection,' said product manager Jayne Abel. 'It would be very difficult to say exactly what the trends are because I think that today, there seem to be no limits as to what people are putting on frames. There are supras, chunky acetates, rimless, all kinds of shapes and sizes - and no one is holding back on colours and patterns.'
Feminine details were a key part of the new Celine Dion sunglasses released by Dunelm. Pearls have been inserted into the acetate sides of two new models - 5052S and 5053S - giving them subtle, understated glamour. According to area sales manager Remy Oudes, these are perfect for 'more mature lady who wants style but not a lot of fuss'.
The frames on the Jai Kudo stand, according to sales director Jamie Holoran, are 'interesting - but not outlandish or over the top'. Still on a high from winning the Best New Product award at Vision Expo East in March, the company unveiled a host of new designs. Angled sides, patterned acetates and open sides all appeared and so too did the detail of crystal studs on the tops of the browbars. 'We think this is a particularly classy look,' said Holoran. 'We previously did this with a metallic supra and it was very well received, so now we are doing it in the acetate model 1749. If we have something people like, we try to bring it back in another way, update the look.'
At the AMA Optics stand everyone was talking about the No Limits range, according to consultant Alfred Dening. 'The name of this range really describes our attitude towards the frame designs that are featured, there really are no limits to what we can do. No Limits is a bit more daring,' he said. New models include 8475, a high grade steel supra frame with brightly coloured rubber inlays along the sides, and the 8499, which features metal mesh down the sides. While these urban look frames are proving popular, so too, noted Dening was the 8477 model, a more glamorous frame with diamanté studs down the sides.
Silhouette won the FMO Frame Awards runner-up Female category for Titan Wave 6590, which UK managing director Roger McLaren said marks a further development for the rimless collection. 'The combination of beta titanium and the innovative glazing system combined to provide comfort and one of the lightest frames in the world,' he said.
Launching at the show was SPX Motion featuring eight frames in eight colours. 'The rimless designs feature narrow polymide sides that are hypoallergenic, keep their shape, warm against skin, have a hinge without screws and are simple and light,' said marketing manager Erin Walsh.
The SPX Modern Art stood out and has recently been awarded the coveted Red Dot award. The four-model collection comes in four colours and combines SPX with titanium in designs that are surprisingly flattering on. 'There's nothing else like it,' said Walsh. Minimal Art 92 is so named as it was originally launched in 1992. Aimed towards the mature male it is essentially one piece of narrow titanium attached to lenses by two pins secured by a glazing plug.
Sports vision
Sports brands were keen to reveal the new faces that will be promoting their frames throughout 2007. At the Marchon stand, England rugby player Mark Cueto was representing Nike Vision and unveiled his signature model - Diverge. The sports wrap frame comes with two interchangeable lenses, one of which is photochromic.
Along with this model, Nike Vision launched two new women's sunglass frames. Tina is an over-sized sports frame made from layered black and striped grey acetate with laser cut motifs on the sides, while Operate is an acetate aviator with a graduated lens.
Bushnell Performance Optics introduced Frenchman Laurent Blanc as the new face of sports lifestyle brand Bollé. According to Dawne Warren, Bushnell business and communications director, Bollé was continuing its focus on sports functionality but is aiming to incorporate fashion and glamour in these designs. Bollé has released Score, a wrap frame with adjustable temple tips that can be bent to better grip a person's head. The Warrant is another sports wrap which has been designed to provide a universal fit. 'It also allows for an interchangeable lens,' noted Warren. 'One of these lens is our Competivision lens, which was designed specifically for tennis. The lens highlights the colour yellow, and therefore tennis balls.'
And while there were no famous faces at the Dirty Dog stand, the extreme sports eyewear brand made its presence felt by unveiling an impressive number of new models. 'We release several new models every month,' said Toby Williams, managing director of Dirty Dog. 'We plan for this speed and regularity, as fashion moves very quickly and we want to move with it.'
But functionality, stressed Williams, was still paramount. For example, he noted that Dirty Dog has been using the material TR90 for nearly five years because of its durability in extreme conditions. Another example he gave was the Tube frame. 'This frame is designed mainly for surfing. It is very functional as it has a mechanism which allows a strap to be fitted to the ends which means they stay on while a person is surfing,' he said.
First timers
A number of boutique companies made the journey to Optrafair for the first time this year. In the Boulevard, Beausoleil was showing a colourful collection of frames and sunglasses. While the men's range was more traditional, the unisex and ladies' ranges were full of colour and vibrancy.
'We are getting more daring with colours and shapes in the unisex range. Here we have a lot of two-tone pairings, like chocolate and aqua or violet and green,' said Harold Heider, Beausoleil export manager. 'In the ladies' range we have a lot of filigree patterns, with deeper frame shapes, which are very pretty and perfect for mature women who need progressive lenses but do not want boring frames. There is a real demand for frames which fit progressive lenses, but people want to put these lenses into something a little bit different. That is why we have such a focus on colour and pattern.'
Heider said the most popular patterns were proving to be the 'fishnet stocking' acetates for women, and the chequered acetates for men. 'The "faux-horn" is also very popular, and it's great because no piece of it is exactly the same - just like real horn each piece is unique,' he said.
Also new to Optrafair was Nueu, a sports and lifestyle-focused company showcasing a funky sunglass collection with a skateboarder image. The first full-year collection comprised eight styles in four colours.
Director Daniel Puddick said that with a recommended retail price of £25 the idea was to launch a style brand based on quality. 'We are targeting more independent practices with our unisex range and next year we have plans to launch Nueu elite polarised lenses as well as an ophthalmic collection,' he explained. A competition to win the entire Nueu collection was also drawing a lot of attention, Puddick said. 'We came to Optrafair to test how we would be received by opticians and it's going really well. We are establishing our brand name and getting a great response.'
Making a big statement on the European Optical Supplies stand was Von Dutch. Launching at the show, the eyewear with attitude displayed frames with outspoken messages across them including 'Road rebel', 'Bitch' and 'Hot Kouture'. Stand spokesman Michael McKeegan said a large Dublin-based practice had taken a keen interest in the Gothic-themed collection with plans to take it on.
The gothic influence carried through to the ophthalmic frames with ornate designs at the temples and a single diamanté at each side tip.