From independent start-up brands to giants of the optical industry, Andrew McCarthy-McClean heads to Milan to explore the largest European trade show

Attendees at Mido 2024

Mido sprawls across seven halls for three days at Rho Fiera Milano, making it the optical industry’s most vast and varied exhibition. Among the notable eyewear trends were matt black finishes that stood out among shiny acetate models and smaller side hoods that created a subtle fashion statement.

Sustainability is a rising tide among exhibitors but to varying depth, which creates options for stockists who are ready to jump in and those who just want to dip their toes.

The 2024 show saw the big companies provide on-stand experiences with basketball hoops, fast cars and giveaways, while old favourites were reinvigorated, new brands were launched and independents continued to innovate. Optician rounds up the eyewear launches from the show floor.

 

Eyespace

Arhlo is the new eyewear brand launched by British company Eyespace as an alternative option to its premium offerings. It was created as a mid-market brand in light of the cost of living crisis and envisioned as accessible and fashion-led with sustainability at its core.

The majority of the collection is made from bio-based acetate except a few colour options and is unbranded so to allow the wearer to find a style that matches their personality.

Standout colour options among the retro-inspired styles is a brown marble effect that gives ARH001 (top right) a smooth honey tone, and the matt black finish found on ARH004 (bottom right) emphasises the sculpting on the brow line.

 

Ørgreen Optics 

Copenhagen is the home of Ørgreen and the city’s contrast between light and shadow inspired the design and colours of the brand’s Danish Delight collection.

Acetate models combined with titanium play with light through flashes of colour that contrast deeper tones to create a two-tone effect enhanced by the different finishes of the materials.

The Nordic colour palette of acetate frames, such as the Revenge (top right) style, include lemon glass clear and amber, or mistletoe red and wild rose.

Ørgreen sticks to classic shapes but also subtly subverts traditional models with design features, such as the discreet hood found on the Atomizer (bottom right) and Sweet Jane models.

 

JF Rey 

Bold is a term not taken lightly by JF Rey in its 1985 collection of oversized, acetate styles that go big on colour combinations and extreme shapes.

Angular cat’s eye model Carolina matches black glitter across its wide top line with horizontal, JF Rey-red stripes on the rounded bottom half of the laminated silhouette.

 

Modo 

Italia Independent is reborn under the ownership of Modo Eyewear and the company says it has stayed true to the brand’s bold and avant-garde spirit while updating iconic models and improving the quality.

Across the eight sunglasses and nine spectacles, which are predominately made of acetate, are velvet, denim and camouflage finishes, metal effects inspired by competition yachting in the ’90s, bright colours and traditional tones.

Entirely made in Italy, Italia Independent’s return is also being supported by a campaign entirely generated using artificial intelligence.

 

Inspecs 

Botaniq is the new sustainably focused brand launched by Inspecs that uses Eastman’s Acetate Renew as the frame material, Tritan Renew for the lenses and cork packaging that folds flat for shipping.

Across its eight optical and 32 sunglass models are trend-led designs for women and classic shapes for men.

The brand’s campaign model is a bold cat’s eye with softened angular edges for a feminine look in a forest green colour option.

 

Garrett leight California optical 

Nature is Garrett Leight California Optical’s muse in its spring/summer 2024 collection, which features filigree details such as a braid or mountain pattern core wires.

One style available as an optical or sun model is Sherwood, pictured, a 1950s square frame with a lighter feel that stands out in the butterscotch True Demi colour option.

Garrett Leight has also reinvented its Van Buren aviator (without the foldability) with a single top bar and flat glass lenses in a lightweight, stainless steel frame.

 

EssilorLuxottica 

The giants of the optical sector have entered audiology with its wearable Nuance Audio device, a frame with an integrated hearing aid in the temples for mild to moderate hearing loss.

The product is not scheduled for release until 2025 and will only be available in the US initially, but EssilorLuxottica showcased the technology on stand at Mido and let attendees test it out.

Through two eyewear models, Nuance Audio is designed to eliminate the stigma and discomfort associated with traditional hearing aids.

 

Marcolin 

The latest addition to the Marcolin house brand portfolio is German metal masters, ic! Berlin.

At Mido, two new sun models, including the acid yellow Carson pilot model, showcased all the factors frame wearers expect from the brand – thin, lightweight, flexible and durable.

Among the optical launches was Ada, pictured, which is an homage to minimalist Scandinavian design with aqua or mauve colour options available.

 

The AvantGuard 

Exhibiting at Mido for the first time was The AvantGuard, under the creative direction of Sunday Somewhere founder Dave Allison and launching its Rewilding collection of sunglasses.

Handcrafted in Japan, the range of 11 frames has the environment at its heart with use of recycled, bio-degradable and plant-based Italian acetate.

Classic wayfarer, aviator and cat’s eye shapes are reimagined, such as Celosia (top right) in midnight glass, moss or sandstone tortoiseshell colour options, or Wildflower (bottom right) in matt patchwork tortoiseshell, limestone or viva magenta.

Detailing includes triangular hinges and customised metal wire-core temples, plus the brand’s Eyes for Change slogan is laser etched on select models.