The Kirk family have been pioneers in optics for a century, an enormous achievement that deserves both recognition and celebration. In a world of start-ups and super brands it is important to reflect on the heritage of British marques; companies who quietly grew industry in the UK, and created a legacy for generations to come, and the story of the Kirk Brothers is certainly one to share.
The brand was established almost by accident, when in 1919 two ambitious brothers from London called Sidney and Percy Kirk were looking for a way to make money after the war. They found an old sewing machine and turned it into a lens cutter. It was a novel and unique idea that transformed the optical industry in the UK and 100 years later, their grandson, Jason Kirk, along with his wife of 25 years Karen, continue to fly the flag for innovation and independence in optics.
In 100 years there have been countless changes and challenges; WWII, the launch of the National Health Service, a new currency, recessions, the joining and now departure from the EU and the launch of the internet and social media. These are just some of the mammoth changes to industry and society that the Kirk family faced, but with that perhaps comes a deep-rooted desire to endure and succeed. Today, Jason Kirk and his wife Karen are company owners of luxury eyewear brand Kirk & Kirk. Although life and business may be very different, the foundation and heart of their business is still driven by this attitude and is what they believe will carry the brand forward.
Jason Kirk says: ‘This is an amazing moment, having seen everything that my grandfather achieved and growing up in my parent’s practice, both myself and Karen feel incredibly proud of the legacy that was left to us and our achievements in driving the business forward. We want to learn from the past to drive the future, and like previous generations, we aim to significantly contribute to the next century of optics.’
Despite Sidney and Percy Kirk starting their company ‘Kirk Brothers,’ that saw them become leaders in modern-day optical manufacturing, they actually ‘trod the boards’ before entering optics. The brothers, who were incredibly close, adored the theatre and vaudeville luminaries such as George Burns were regular visitors to their London home in the 1920s.
Thick as thieves, they bought houses next door to each other and even had the same cars with consecutive number plates, and believe it or not they even married sisters, Miriam and Sarah. This powerful bond was the cement to their success in both the business and innovations they would go on to create together.
As post-war life slowly began to regain colour, the brothers were looking for a career more financially rewarding than acting. Their curiosity and natural knack for innovation led them to converting an old sewing machine into a lens cutter for spectacles. They sold the lenses to optical companies, many of which were owned by their friends, and also sold buttons to Woolworths. Pretty soon the lens business grew, and they were able to open a shop and factory in Holborn, London.
From their first makeshift lens-cutter, they managed to go on to manufacture some of the industry’s finest inventions such as Motex, the world’s first bullet proof lens; originally created for pilots, these lenses were later used to help Sir Malcolm Campbell claim his water-speed record.
The Facifit nosepad
The Kirk brothers travelled the world, opening factories in the US and South Africa. Their eagerness to make waves in the British optical industry was remarkable, and in 1932 Sidney set off from London en-route to South America to source the finest quartz, found on the beaches of Brazil, to use for high quality glass lenses. With this material they produced one of the first bifocal lenses.
The brothers also created many items of optical machinery and dispensing equipment such as the Kirbend and Kirbro Rule – both used to take facial measurements for bespoke spectacles, and the Facifit – which featured nose pads and was described as ‘a perfect non-pressure spectacle’.
Facifit has been designed with the object of enabling the optician easily and comfortably to fit the patient without the necessity of carrying a large and varied stock. The Facifit is the only pad spectacle that allows for adjustments of placquets in all directions.
As well as pioneers in industry, Sidney and Percy were revolutionary in their approach to business. They were the first optical company in London to make deliveries by motorbike and even had their own dedicated in-house marketing team, producing advertising slogans including: ‘Why frown when you can smile. Modern eyewear improves your appearance.’
‘It is easy to overlook how innovative Kirk Brothers were as a company,’ said Karen Kirk. ‘Things that seem normal to us today were visionary in the 1920s.’
‘Some of the values that they held would be very welcome today,’ Jason adds. ‘They helped other optical people set up what we would now consider to be competitive factories in London because they wanted the UK to be seen as a centre for optical excellence… and it was. They espoused a generosity that is sadly lacking in most businesses today. A good example of this are the illustrations and advertising material they created for opticians to use to promote their goods. Percy Kirk led the dedicated marketing department – itself another first in optics.’
The company’s ‘why frown’ advertisement
Post war landscape
Post WWII, the NHS was contracted to produce the eight million frames that were needed annually, and the Kirk Brothers were one of several businesses that were sub-contracted to support this demand. By the early 1950s the brothers decided to separate their skill set, with Percy continuing his successes in optical machinery (particularly in the USA) and Sidney growing his passion for retail. It was time for the next generation to take over.
Jason’s father, Neville and his brothers and cousins worked as opticians – and from the age of three, Jason (Kirk) spent every Saturday perched on the reception desk at his father’s practice in Kingsbury. He learned the business of optics from the ground up – purchasing, sales, optometry, customer service – a shop floor is a vibrant and varied place to be.
He was intrigued, but initially not sold on the industry and went off to study French at university. He had an early career in publishing, then a spell working as a sales and marketing manager for L’Oreal, but one day in 1992 he stumbled across a box of his Grandpa Sidney’s old frames buried in the back of the practice. As he unwrapped these precious pieces, his vocation unveiled itself and he has not looked back.
That same year, Jason met Karen (a graphic designer by trade) and together they launched their first eyewear business together. Their inaugural collection was an homage to Jason’s heritage and that very box of frames.
Motex safety lenses were used in land and water speed record attempt
Jason and Karen continue to be inspired by their heritage and have a tangible hunger for the industry. Kirk & Kirk is the only optical company to produce in acrylic (opposed to acetate) – a specially formulated material that allows their frames to be lighter, stronger and more colourful, something they are famed for. Like their predecessors, Jason and Karen feel their role lies not only as manufacturers, but as support and solution solvers to the independent opticians, and quite simply they want people to be excited by eyewear.
But in today’s social media whirlwind, where success is measured by likes, hashtags and paid partnerships, what does a century of heritage offer you? Heritage cannot be bought – the culture, customs and traditions are inherited, but heritage is only important if it is still relevant to its consumers. The challenge for older brands is learning how to serve customers in a modern society, but on their own terms.
The internet of course offers endless opportunities for advertising, self-promotion and in some people’s opinions, is the future of retail. It can be difficult for small heritage brands to respond to the influencer trends in the same way internet fashion led brands can, but it is vital they stay present to keep moving forward.
As consumers trust in what influencers flog begins to perhaps wane or at least be questioned, here lies an opportunity. The history of a brand has a chance to shine through, they can leverage their rich heritage and stay relevant for todays consumers. Trust is still one of the most valuable commodities in business, not only in the product being brought, but also in the people it is brought from and Kirk & Kirk are a brand built on the foundation of experience – 100 years of it.
The next 100
This year Jason and Karen will be taking part in their 25th Silmo. The new Centena Collection celebrates their 100-year milestone, but the collection is directed firmly towards the future, highlighting the unique qualities of the special grade Italian acrylic used to create them. The frames are hand-crafted in chunky 10mm acrylic but despite the substantial look they weigh next to nothing making them incredibly comfortable to wear. Handmade in France from start to finish and available in 10 new shapes and colourways.
Today Kirk & Kirk retails in the finest independent optical boutiques around the world and produces eyewear which the duo hope would have made Sidney and Percy proud. Jason says: ‘We often wonder how Sidney and Percy might have approached a new challenge.’ The stories of the past make for a rich history, and quite rightly, they see it as a distinct brand advantage.
The couple are conscious of the importance of staying true to their design ethos and brand philosophies while respecting and responding to digital technologies and trends. We live in a global world, so they are aware that their image and future must constantly be nurtured. Jason travels regularly to visit retailers, give talks and host trunk shows, supporting their bricks and mortar shops and speaking directly to the people who support his brand around the world.
Their heritage is a fabulous tool to draw from, but trust in this brand is maintained not just through this or their product even, but also through Jason and Karen’s enduring energy for eyewear and the industry they love so much.