Bespoke designer

Tom Davies came to frame design almost by mistake. Having graduated in film set design, he went to Hong Kong 'for the experience', and got a job with an interior design company. Then he was approached to become a designer for a start-up frame manufacturer and at the tender age of 21 was made chief designer. 'Nobody knew what the hell we were doing,' he laughs. 'The first frames we produced were horrendous, but it was an opportunity to make lots of mistakes.' Davies became involved in all aspects of frame design and production, including the machinery choices and tool development. After a year in business, the firm exhibited at Silmo and established a reputation for itself. 'My reputation went sky high, and soon I was asked to design spectacles for other brands. I designed collections for all the major suppliers, and gained the confidence to produce my own range.' Davies returned to the UK and set himself up with the help of a small business loan. He convinced a contact in Japan to manufacture the TD Tom Davies range. 'I chose Japan because it's the best place to make spectacles, and is the best for titanium,' he says. 'I use a utensil company for the acetate frames, because it can mix the acetate and colours to my specifications. The quality makes my frames unique. I focus on the detail. Opticians are very fussy about quality.' Davies says the clean and understated designs are technically difficult to manufacture. There is no specific target group, but those aged between 25-40 are the usual buyers. Design comes first but comfort is also very important. 'People say that they can't find eyewear that suits them, but I can give them something that will. When someone's wearing one of my frames, I want them to look better wearing it than without. I design for personalities, optical needs and sales points for opticians.' While the range is at the higher value end, Davies also provides a bespoke frame and sunglass service. The individually designed titanium frames are conservative and subtle, and have a price tag of £5,000. 'Plastic is fashionable, but for expensive frames it's got to be titanium because it's the best material,' he says. There is a three-month waiting list for the service, which allows clients 'any design they wish', and manufacturing time for each piece is another three months. Davies explains the service: 'The bespoke work is good money, but I do work hard for it. I design four a month and each is done in stages. The client first has a consultation with an optometrist, I then take their measurements. We photograph the client from various angles, and discuss their personal style and what they would like their frame to say about them. I produce photo art of the client wearing the frame, and get their feedback before it goes into production. The procedure is designed to reassure the client that they are receiving the best service possible. As a finishing touch, the client's name is discreetly laser-engraved on the inside of the frame. 'It takes two-and-a-half to three days to design each frame, but it's a very enjoyable part of my job, it helps with new model ideas for the collection, and it's a great marketing tool.' Davies says that the service differentiates a practice from its competitors, and there is a £2,000 fee for referring the client. Practices can also provide a lower level of bespoke frame for £1,000, where an existing model from his collection can be re-designed for a patient's needs. The 16 practices, 'Home Accounts' as they are known, are licensed and trained to sell the bespoke service as well as the Tom Davies line. 'I want to open 50 accounts in the UK and then stop. I am being quite careful with the opticians I take on. Only one in each area and they need to have the right patient base.' The main issue for Davies to tackle when taking on a new Home Account is what he calls 'Dispensing Optician Syndrome'. He explains: 'The owner chooses the frames, but the DO is the person who sells them. Optometrists are close but they don't like selling. I insist that the DO is there and involved in choosing the frames. It's very important Ð you can have a really enthusiastic optometrist, but if the DO doesn't like it, it won't work. They know the patients' preferences.' When practices become Home Accounts, they pay a fee (but are not obliged to purchase a set number of frames) and receive marketing support from Davies. Before launching the eyewear company, he ran a marketing and branding consultancy. 'I really know how to market things. I want to bring big brand strength to small practices.' The marketing and advertising budget is spent with his Home Accounts, rather than in the consumer press and Davies gets involved in the initial launch day, providing brochures to send out with reminder letters to entice visitors. He advises practices to offer a discounted service to 10 patients, and provide a bespoke service on that day. Practice staff are trained prior to the day and are focused on both the TD Tom Davies range and the bespoke service. Davies concludes: 'At the end of the day people like my frames Ð end users, opticians and me. I've got a lot to offer through the Home Accounts, but it's got to be a relationship. That's when the magic happens.'