Although the optical trade shows have been taking place again for at least 18 months, each event has had something lacking. Exhibitors and delegates are yet to return in the same volumes as pre-Covid-19, but Mido in early February was the first post-pandemic show that looked and felt like trade shows of days gone by.
Many companies in the sector have been reluctant to return to trade shows, with each event having its share of noticeable absentees, but this year’s Mido had the full suite of eyewear giants back with their village-like stands, along with the boundary-pushing brands like Jacques Marie Mage, Dita, and Cutler and Gross that drew in the independent opticians from around the world. There were still some big names missing, with the likes of Mykita and Garrett Leight not in attendance, but with over 1,000 exhibitors, there was more than enough to see.
Mido’s strength has always been its international feel, bringing companies and visitors from all over the world, but the pandemic has curtailed that somewhat. Attendance topped 35,000, which represented a 60% increase on 2022’s figures. Of the total number of visitors, just 20% were from the rest of the world, with the remainder coming from Europe. Of the 1,000 exhibitors, 72% were international and 28% from Italy. Among the overseas exhibitors, 51% were from Europe, 42% from Asia and 7% from the rest of the world.
‘We have an exciting responsibility that comes with being the gold standard, global eyewear event and that is, to bring together supply and demand for professionals who participate in Mido,’ said Mido president Giovanni Vitaloni. ‘This year, we attracted many first-time presences among exhibitors and visitors who expressed their positive surprise at walking through the doors of our show.’
After a series of digital-only shows and last year’s spring scheduling, the return to an early February date was also welcomed by Vitaloni: ‘The first weeks of February are strategic for companies and buyers to operate in a timely manner, getting an early look at the new collections in order to realise a return on investment in the first quarter of the year. This worked in our favour, eliciting a massive response by companies, including the return of industry giants, Asian brands and the debut of small, independent businesses that have made Mido their market entry of choice.’ Vitaloni also confirmed the early February date would remain in place until at least 2026.
Going green
When asked how Mido organisers lessen the impact of the show on the environment, Vitaloni said: ‘We know how great an impact large-scale events like Mido can have and therefore, at the recent editions, we have endeavoured to reduce not only its environmental, but also its social impact.
‘Among the first results achieved is ISO 20121:2012 Sustainability Certification, obtained at the 2022 edition, certifying the sustainable management of large events, and in February we will be evaluated for the 2023 event.’
New brands coming into the sector are at a distinct advantage when it comes to developing a sustainable product because they have a clean slate to work from, where being eco-friendly is at the heart of every decision. Fledging Italian brand 23° Eyewear is one such brand that has a well thought out sustainable approach to every facet of its business. The 23° moniker is inspired by the figure’s importance to human life and the planet. For example, there are 23 pairs of chromosomes that make up the human genome, it is both the angle of the heart in relation to the rib cage and the inclination of earth, as well as the number of days in the physical biorhythm cycle.
Frames in the brand’s ophthalmic and sunglass collections are constructed using injection moulding and bio-based plastic that can be recycled when the product is no longer wanted. In addition, sunglass models use Barberini mineral glass lenses, which not only provide some of the best optical performance on the market, but they are 100% recyclable too.
The thought that has gone into production of the brand’s eyewear is laser-focused on sustainability. Electric injection equipment has been utilised to use 98.7% less crude oil than traditional dynamic oil systems, and the water used during the tumbling process is rerouted and continuously reused. Elsewhere, solar panels supply the company’s energy, heating pumps are used for air conditioning and heating, while the minute amount of plastic that is used in offices and production is always recycled or upcycled.
Sustainability was also high on the agenda for Austrian eyewear and lens manufacturer, Silhouette, but as a company with a rich history and established methods of production, it has needed to implement measures differently. Chief marketing officer Michael Schmied, meeting the criteria for green certification has been a tough task.
‘Since September 2022, we have been CO2 neutral in production and have halved the CO2 footprint of the company overall,’ Schmied told Optician. Silhouette achieved this by looking at its power supply. Every potential spare square foot of space at its Linz headquarters was utilised for solar panels, while incoming electric power was switched to renewable energy.
‘The biggest footprint we have is from employees driving to the factory, and this is factored into our overall CO2 footprint when being audited,’ said Schmied. ‘Of course, we cannot buy electric cars for all our employees, so we need to compensate in other areas for the moment, but it should give that the message that Silhouette sees sustainability as a matter of great pride.’
Home turf heroes
Italy boasts some of the finest eyewear manufacturing facilities in the world and the ‘Made in Italy’ label is one the country is truly proud of. Given this heritage, it is sometimes easy to typecast Italian eyewear as bold and colourful acetates, with volume and hues telling the story. While there is an element of truth to that, there is also a great deal of innovation in Italian eyewear production, where complex construction and technical componentry take a starring role.
This duality of heritage and innovation is at the very heart of Movitra and its range of sunglasses. Founded in 2014 by three friends after they had a radical idea for protecting the lenses from impacts and scratches, Movitra’s frames rotate upon themselves at the nose bridge so the temples can be closed on both sides of the frame. Innovative frame design like this can sometimes mean that outright style is sacrificed, but this isn’t the case with Movitra. Silhouettes are sharp, with modern interpretations of classic shapes like the Clubmaster and Wayfarer.
Naturally, the acetate used in the brand’s combination collection, comes from Mazzucchelli, and is used in deep 8mm plates that allow titanium bracing, which also includes the rotational mechanism, to be inserted around each lens form. Bevelling of the acetate is kept to a minimum, so the edges follow the same sharp aesthetic as the rest of the frame. Full metal and full acetate styles are also available.